As our own little island enters its grey period and our minds grow desperate with dreams of warmer climes full of light, we consider the best winter sun destinations for everybody from the fly-and-flopper to the adventurer and those seeking to learn and explore under the sun.
Sri Lanka
Go to Sri Lanka now and you’ll still see fewer crowds than pre-pandemic levels, leaving you with better prices and more freedom to move around the island’s tea trails, beach towns and fishing villages to the north. Depending on your priorities – some will want to stay close to the beach at all times, while others (like me) will become restless and want to incorporate more intrepid days – you can spend a few days in the Central Highlands hiking the newly completed Pekoe Trail taking in the tea plantations around Kandi, earning those slower days on the beach in Tangalle, Weligama, Unawatuna or Negombo.
Where to stay Malabar Hill, just inland from Weligama, is a stylish little gem built into the hills and with a striking pool (read our full review of Malabar Hill). In the Central Highlands, Ceylon Tea Trails is the best in the area. Personally, I’d spend the whole trip following the steps of architect Geoffrey Bawa throughout the island, staying in the buildings he envisioned over decades which have since become hotels (Lunuganga and Club Villa in Bentota, Heritance Ahungalla and the Last House in Tangalle).
Morocco
Closer to home for a shorter break, you can keep it easy and stay in the capital Marrakech spending sunny afternoons exploring the medina, the foothills of the Atlas Mountains or lounging by a beautiful hotel pool of which there are several in pretty secret gardens. The more adventurous should head south to Ouarzazate on the edge of the Sahara Desert. The design and literary crowd have long preferred Tangier, where you can sign up to a painting holiday hosted by interior designer Gavin Houghton and artist Joan Hecktermann or follow in the footsteps of the Beat generation’s greatest writers such as Allen Ginsberg, Jack Keraouc and William S Burroughs who used to frequent its medina.
Where to stay In Marrakech, Royal Mansour, Les Deux Tours, El Fenn or Dar Rhizlane would be my top pick. Dar Ahlam in Skoura is the best place to base yourself in the south of Morocco, and offers experiences exploring the almond valleys, palm oases and desert sceneries of the area. Those who have more time can follow its French theatre producer owner Thierry Thessier’s Route du Sud, which incorporates stops at Dar Ahlam and its Sahara Camp as well as three private houses he has restored.
Costa Rica
Its reputation for surf, sun and sand is well justified, and with several recent openings and even more in the pipeline, it seems 2024 is the year of Costa Rica. It is a destination that requires at least 10 days to really get to know, with its infrastructure largely at the hands of nature which makes moving around slower. Active holidaymakers will want to include a couple days inland around the Arenal volcano or nearer to the capital San Jose to explore the national parks. Limon, on its east coast, is great for rafting and watersports. Many of its blockbuster hotels and family-friend resorts will be on the west coast around Papagayo and Tamarindo, while Santa Teresa is more of a laidback surfers haunt.
Where to stay El Silencio near Juan Castro Blanco park is a relaxed eco-resort and in good proximity to both San Jose, where you’ll fly in, and excellent natural highlights so famed of Costa Rica (the Catarata Del Toro waterfall is 6 kilometres away). Pacuare Lodge in Limon is accessible only by white-water rafting to the entrance and then its up into tree houses above the river. Auberge Collection’s refined Hacienda AltaGracia overlooking the Talamanca Mountains has excellent wellness credentials and horse riding on site. NIHI Santo Tomás Costa Rica on the north-west coast is looking at a 2025 opening, and in the meantime, Habitas will introduce its first property in the country in Santa Teresa with 45 rooms and 10 luxury tents.
Kenya
While it is true that Kenya is one of the best spots in Africa for spotting game, particularly the Masai Mara with its concentration of excellent, well-established camps, it’s well worth heading to its coast for sea and sun but with the cultural density that can otherwise be difficult to find in the Indian Ocean’s beach destinations.
Where to stay Base yourself in Lamu or Kilifi, both with several smart hotels – Manda Bay Lodge, The Majlis, Villa Malindi are all on the beach – and set off on day trips to surrounding fishing villages or explore the Lamu archipelago on a wooden dhow (traditional fishing boat of the region). Tusitiri Dhow, under the Enasoit Collection, offers day trips or multiple-day itineraries sleeping on the fully serviced boat. Follow our journey on the Tusitiri Dhow here.
South Africa
Whether you’re after beach, safari, a family trip or road trip around its beautiful wine regions near Cape Town, South Africa is a long established favourite among UK sun seekers and with good reason. Its variety together with direct flights, an hour’s time difference between London and Cape Town and a great boutique hotel offering make it a safe escape route when our little island descends into its grey period.
Where to stay Next year will see the much anticipated arrival of The Homestead on the Nambiti Private Game Reserve, a sustainable, design-led camp in the malaria-free region which takes the worry of tablets out of the equation. If wellness is the order, Sterrekopje at the foothill of the Franschhoek mountains is a biodiverse farm and wellness retreat in the Cape Winelands with striking interiors by designer Gregory Mellor.
Oman
No doubt Dubai would be the obvious choice to include, so much so, we felt it wasn’t necessary to bring it to attention. Its neighbour Oman on the other hand, offers the beach experience at the handful of five-stars near the capital Muscat but also the means of reaching deeper into desert villages like Nizwa or the awe-inspiring beauty of the Jebel Akhdar mountains. It is well worth adding a couple nights to your itinerary to incorporate it.
Where to stay If beach is the order, the Chedi is the jewel of Muscat, or go for Six Senses Zighy Bay a short drive from Dubai. A new Nikki Beach Resort & Spa on Yiti Bay 30 minutes from Muscat airport is also slated to open later into 2024. In the Jebel Akhdar mountains, stay at the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar or the Alila.
Tunisia
Though its long stretches of perfect, turquoise beach such as Hammamet, Sousse and Monastir have long drawn a big resort crowd, it is well worth going off the beaten track and heading inland for a real sense of Tunisia’s deep rooted culture, layered history, powdery sand dunes and laidback villages. The capital Tunis and its blue-and-white painted seaside area of Carthage carry much to see and wander, before delving deeper south to see important remnants of history including the Roman amphitheatre of El Jem, the Berber village of Chenini in Tataouine – known for its ‘cave dwellings’ below the ground, built for coolness and protection – and desert towns such as Douz, the gateway to the Sahara.
Where to stay Anantara Sahara Tozeur is surrounded by sands and palm oases in the south, while in Tunis our favourite stay is the stylish guesthouse Dar Ben Gacem Pasha in the heart of the medina.
Mexico
Several of Mexico’s hotspots are well connected to the UK via direct flights, including Cancun, Puerto Vallarta and its creative capital Mexico City (read our guide to its best spots). Hassle-free sunseekers should head to Cancun from where they can head down the Mayan Riviera towards Playa del Carmen and further to Tulum and Balacar or the Yucatan’s capital Merida. The more intrepid who have greater time to spare should head via Mexico City to the Pacific coast at Puerto Escondido, where we recently investigated its string of hip new beachside retreats. Baja California to the north has its share of cool stays in the unique desert terrain and is a popular surf spot, while the up-and-coming Nayarit above well-trotted Puerto Vallarta is one to have on your radar with several openings in the works.
Where to stay One&Only Mandarina in Nayarit offers a more polished experience as expected of the five-star hotel brand and came in eighth on the 50 Best Hotels list this year. On Oaxaca’s Pacific coastline, Hotel Escondido by Grupo Habitas has a handful of individual beach huts with plunge pools right on the sand. Their Mexico City hotel Condesa DF, in the namesake creative neighbourhood, is one of the best stays in the city. For something a little more traditional, Octavia Casa takes over a chic townhouse.
Mauritius
Mauritius is one of those blockbuster winter-sun destinations that needs little convincing to visit, serviced by direct flights from the UK and with a good selection of resorts for honeymooners, families and budgets small and endless. The Grand Baie beach area is ideal for those looking for nightlife, markets and to feel part of the action. The south and east of the island, more conveniently located to the airport, is more family-friendly, particularly the resort row around Le Morne. It’s also easier to explore the national parks if you base yourself here for a more adventurous holiday (ziplining, hikes and waterfalls included), most famous being the Black River Gorges.
Where to stay If staying in the Grand Baie area to the north, LUX Grand Baie ticks all the boxes and is well located near local attractions. Heritage Le Telfair resort in the south is the sophisticated choice while on Le Morne we suggest LUX Le Morne.
The Maldives
Navigating where to stay in The Maldives, the destination that tops most bucket lists for winter sun, can be hard to think about, but you won’t be short of choice regardless of your travelling needs. Families with younger children should consider choosing a hotel reachable by a quick speedboat from Male. Those who have the means can take an ongoing domestic flight to more far-flung atolls which can add considerable time to your journey but comes with the reward of better resorts and less crowds.
Where to stay The choice of hotels is overwhelming, so ask a specialist tour operator for advice such as Turquoise Holidays who are experts on the destination. The Ritz-Carlton Fari Islands is the sophisticated choice in the North Male atoll just a short hop on a speedboat, while neighbouring Patina, part of the Fari Islands project, has been designed with a younger, more hip crowd in mind. Six Senses Laamu combines sustainability and barefoot luxury, and is a favourite among families. Meanwhile Soneva Fushi in the Baa Atoll, one of the largest islands in the Maldives, and Soneva Jani, its more grown-up, wellness-focused sister property, will be joined by Soneva Secrets in January 2024. The 14-villa resort will be in one of the most remote atolls, Haa Dhaalu.
